Very often in the mid 1800’s woman and children’s dresses were lined with a medium brown polished cotton fabric, also known as glazed cotton, and cotton sateen. It was a very sturdy, neutral, long wearing choice of lining material.
My Izannah Walker doll without curls wears her original dress, which has a bodice lining and false hem made of this fabric. The pattern for her dress is the one that I sell labeled Izannah Walker Doll Clothes Pattern for 18-1/2″ Doll.
I currently have one source for this lining fabric. It is available online from the Fashion Fabrics Club located in St. Louis, MO. They are selling this 54-inch wide fabric for $6.95 per yard. I have ordered from them several times and always been quite pleased with their fabrics and service.