Snowflakes are drifting down past the edges of the porch roof, where stacks of apple wood wait to feed the flames in my hearth.
It is snowing today, our first measurable snow this winter. A surprising, heavy snow managed to sneak in during the midst of autumn this year, well before the winter solstice, but that doesn’t really count.
It feels only fitting and proper that I am surrounded by white, both indoors and out, as I work on creating an all white wardrobe for one of my Izannahs. She is quite anxious to be off to her new home and is sitting patiently next to my sewing machine, urging me to hurry and finish so that she can begin her travels…
I love cartridge pleating! No other hand-sewing technique is more beautiful. Used extensively during the 15th and 16th centuries, cartridge pleating had a resurgence in 1830’s – 1860’s.
Yesterday I was cartridge pleating the skirt of a reproduction c.1830’s baby dress and on the spur of the moment decided to make a quick how-to video. Totally unscripted and off the cuff 🙂 , but hopefully helpful to any of you who would like to add more fullness and a marvelous period detail to your reproduction Izannah Walker doll clothing. You can easily modify the skirt of my Izannah Walker Doll Clothes Pattern to change from a gathered to cartridge pleated skirt.
Dress made using my Izannah Walker dress pattern, with the addition of a cartridge pleated skirt and contrasting fabric trim.Cartridge pleated dress made of antique double pink fabric.Close-up showing a cartridge pleated skirt and bodice on a woman's reproduction c. 1830's gown.Close-up of cartridge pleating at the top of an 1830's sleeve.The inside of a cartridge pleated skirt. Notice that the amount of fabric turned down for the cartridge pleating increases by 1/2 inch from the right side of the photo to the left. This is intentional.This is what the baby dress shown in the video looks like now that I have completed it.Close-up of the waistband and pleating on my reproduction c.1830's baby dress.
I’ve always been rather fond of rick rack. It reminds me of my childhood. The dress I wore to my first day of kindergarten was trimmed with white rick rack and I remember seeing it on countless aprons and kitchen curtains during my youth.
In truth, rick rack or waved braid, as it was first known, has been in existence far longer than I have. 🙂 I haven’t been able to track down an exact date yet, but it was certainly available when this papier-mache milliner’s model was made in the 1830’s.
The waved braid on the dress above is an exact color match to the dress fabric. Both the braid and fabric are cotton and I am speculating that they were dyed to match. The dress is original to the doll. Three rows of waved braid circle the skirt and the bodice is adorned with a lavish combination of braid and knotting.
Waved braid and knotting trim the bodice of this 1830's doll's dress. (click on image to enlarge) Collection of the author.
By 1882, when the following paragraph from The Dictionary of Needlework was published, waved braid was certainly common place and was being used to trim children’s clothing. It’s not a far leap from children’s garments to doll clothes, which explains why waved braid is often seen on doll clothing from this era.
“There are also waved cotton braids, used for trimming children’s dresses, which are sold by the gross, cut into lengths. The numbers are 11, 17, 21, 29, and 33. There are also waved worsted braids for children’s use, which are sold in knots of 4 or 5 yards each, and sold by the gross pieces. The numbers are 13, 17, and 21.”
Waved braid trimming the neck and sleeve edges of the original chemise that belongs to one of my antique Izannah Walker dolls.
In the 1880’s it was also popular to do crochet work using waved braid. Some fantastic laces can be created in this manner. I don’t crochet, but if you do and would like to read more about how to make this type of lace, follow this link.
This is the lower edge of a doll's petticoat, from my collection, that is trimmed with tucks and an extravagant use of waved braid.Having the patience and perseverance to hand stitch the points of waved braid together, with a single thread, is rewarded by the spectacular effect you can achieve for very little money.A close-up of white lace created by combining crochet with waved braid.The use of colored braid with crochet gives an entirely different effect to this antique lace.This waved braid lace is destined to grace the petticoat of one of my Izannah Walker dolls. It will look just perfect peeping out from below Turkey red skirts!
No matter what name you call it by, waved braid, snake braid, corrugated braid, rick rack ( alternately ricrac, ric-rack or ric rac) is a very authentic choice for trimming historically accurate, mid-1800’s reproduction doll clothing.
Merry Christmas to all of my Izannah Walker Reproduction Doll Making students! As my present to the class this year I have posted instructions for making a classic mid-nineteenth century Izannah Walker dress on the class member site. The instructions include a bit of dressmaking history and how-to photos. I hope you enjoy using the instructions to make a new Christmas dress for your Izzy. After all, a girl needs more than one style of dress in her wardrobe!
If you are one of my students who has not already signed up for the class member only site, I strongly urge you to do so. Here is a sample of the bonus class information you are missing out on if you are not using the class site:
– A Tutorial on How to Reduce & Enlarge Patterns
– Making Molds: Instructions on How to Make Three Additional Types of Molds (different than the molds in the class instructions book)
– Straw and Silk Bonnet Tutorial
– Directions for Making a Classic Izannah Walker mid-1800’s Child’s Dress
– Discussions and additional Directions for “Adding the Grace of Age”, Painting Tips, Clay, Sculpting, Tools, Special Accessories, and more…
and best of all it’s entirely free for all class members.
Email me at paula@asweetremembrance.com if you are a student who needs another invitation to the class site (everyone is automatically invited when they purchase the class). Be sure to include the approximate date that you took/purchased the class so that it will be easier for me to look you up in my records. Also for those who have already signed-up for the Ning site but can’t remember how to get there, I am happy to send you a reminder
If you haven’t taken my class yet, but have been longing to do so, this would be a wonderful time to start. Make it your 2012 New Year’s resolution to learn how to create an Izannah Walker doll using the same techniques that Izannah did. I do have a handful of classes ready that I can mail out immediately, so it is still possible to get a class before Christmas if you order today or tomorrow (forUS shipping address only).
I love fabric! Especially if it is old. I thought some of you kindred spirits and doll makers might enjoy taking a look at my collection of Izannah era fabrics. They span the 1830’s – 1890’s, which covers virtually all of Izannah Walker’s doll making career, from her earliest doll, rumored to have been made in 1828; through the start of her doll making business in 1845, as reported by her grand-niece Norma H. Robertson, on to her United States patent in 1878 and her death in 1886.
Orange "cheddar" prints.
If you order a custom-made doll or doll clothing you may choose from any of these textiles. In most cases, I only have enough of each to make a single dress, although there are a few exceptions. Some pieces are just large enough to use as trim or for accessories.
Clarets and nutmeg browns.Brown prints were very fashionable in the 1860's.Indigo blues, group 1.Even more indigos (group 2).Civil War era "double pinks"."Poison" greens.Black and white "mourning" print fabrics.Browns and reds.A lovely sheer cotton printed with subtle plum and golden yellow flowers.1830's Prussian blue paisley.Red and blue paisley.
I spent the entire summer scouting for antique fabric and lace, so I currently also have a good supply of exquisite whites for dresses and undergarments.
Last month, when I went to the Harwinton (CT) Antiques and Design weekend, I happened across this fantastic portrait. At the time I had just spent several days painting scallop topped boots on what felt like an entire army of tiny feet and sewing yards and yards of gathered white ruffles and lace. Finding this painting felt like the hand of fate.
Harwinton Antique Show Labor Day weekend 2011Susan Wechsler at the South Road Antiques booth wrapping up the portrait for traveling.Such a great find from a wonderful dealer. You can find Susan by visiting http://www.southroadantiques.com or write to her at southroadantiques@me.com .This doll has been sold, but you may special order a similar doll of your very own.
We’ve hung the portrait in our parlor, so that she over looks the wing-back chair and Sheraton sewing table, where I sit in the evenings to do my hand sewing. That way whenever my thread tangles, I have to rip out stitches, or just generally need a bit of encouragement, I can look up for inspiration. This tiny girl is a gentle guide to the look and feel of long past childhood, that I strive to convey in all of my dolls. I am so happy to have found her!
She looks as if she could have been a model for one of Izannah Walker's dolls.
Izannah Walker was born 194 years ago today on September 25, 1817. Happy Birthday Izannah! To commemorate the occasion I’ve created a special Izannah Birthday Doll with an outstanding eleven-piece wardrobe. I’m also having a birthday sale, from today 9/25/11 through next Sunday 10/2/11, all reproduction Izannah Walker dolls, Izannah Walker Doll Making Classes, Izannah Walker Doll Clothes Patterns and Spun Cotton Ornament Classes are 10% off. This sale includes custom order dolls and as always you are welcome to place items on lay-away. If you have any questions, want to place an order, or would just like to chat about Izannah and her dolls and mine, I can be reached at 860-355-5709 or paula@asweetremembrance.com.
Izannah Birthday Doll
SOLD - Birthday doll and her wardrobe.
Even though I was rushing to beat the rain and falling darkness, I had the best time yesterday taking photos of this doll. It was great fun to “play dress up” with her. Her extensive wardrobe includes three dresses, two chemises, two pairs of pantalettes, two petticoats, an apron and a real coral bead necklace. If you’d like to add more pieces to her wardrobe I can make her hand made leather shoes, a cotton sunbonnet and a straw bonnet.
SOLD - This dress has wonderful sleeves, notice the rows of gathers at the top of the sleeve by the shoulder line.SOLD - This view shows the yards of 1/8th inch velvet ribbon encircling the sleeves, skirt and waistband.SOLD - The fabric for this dress is a very old 24 inch wide pumpkin orange on white print with small brown leaves and red berry dots.SOLD - Here she is wearing her brown and red dress, which is made from another fantastic early fabric.SOLD - She comes with a real coral necklace, which matches the Turkey red embroidery on her linen apron.SOLD - This view shows her tiny stitched toes peeping out from beneath her pantalettes. The pantalettes have Turkey red embroidery to match her apron and crocheted lace in a triangle pattern that echos the zig-zag stripes in her dress fabric. Look at the coordinating fabric lining the "false hem" of her dress.SOLD - She's all dressed for a party in this sheer cotton dress embellished with row upon row of lace insertion.SOLD - Two long ringlets curl in front of each of her ears. Thank you for looking!
To read more about, or purchase this doll please visit my website A Sweet Remembrance. I’d be happy to answer any questions you may have or provide additional photos, just ask 🙂 860-355-5709 paula@asweetremembrance.com.
Make a Wish
Birthday pound cake decorated with fresh borage flowers.
This year the girls and I baked a pound cake for Izannah’s birthday using a c.1754 receipt that I found in The Williamsburg Art of Cookery. This receipt is old enough to have been a well loved family favorite by the time Izannah was born. Here’s the recipe so that you can bake one too.
Pound Cake
Beat one Cup of Butter to a Cream, slowly beat in one and one third Cups of Sugar. Add one Teaspoonful of Mace and beat in five whole Eggs, adding them one at a time. Sift in two Cups of Flour, turn at once into a greased and floured Pan or Mould and bake slowly for one Hour.*
*I baked my cakes in a 300 degree oven, 30 minutes for the doll size cakes and two hours for the larger version.
Carmel, California was one of the stops on our west coast vacation. Naturally I couldn’t go to Carmel without a shopping trip at the Carmel Doll Shop. I had a wonderful time browsing through the shop.
Michael and David were fantastic, even though they were away at a doll show, they arranged for one of their employees to come let me into the store. Thank you Samantha, you made my shopping a treat.
My find of the day was a great button front brown print day dress/morning coat that is just the right size for my 18 inch Izannahs. Every girl deserves a change of clothes :). Take a peek at my first antique Izannah modeling her “new” birthday dress.
Ironically the show Michael and David were doing was in Bellevue, Washington. We had been in Bellevue the day before and knew about the Doll Show, but I decided not to try to squeeze it in before we flew out to San Francisco. If I had known they were there I would have managed a brief stop on the way to the airport 🙂
We rounded out our day in Carmel by having tea at the Tuck Box teashop and buying licorice at the Cottage of Sweets (they have more than 50 varieties).
Since this dress looks so perfect on my Izannah, I’m planning on making a pattern from it, which will hopefully be ready for sale sometime next year.
I’m in the very early planning stages of working on an Izannah Walker Doll Making Retreat for 2012. Because a number of people contacted me about this years retreat, but were unable to attend due to schedule conflicts, I am asking for your input.
If you are interested in attending a 2-3 day Izannah class next year, please comment on this post and let me know when the best time of year would be for you. If you would prefer to email me, that would be great too – paula@asweetremembrance.com.
Last month, while in Kirkland, WA for a family wedding, I had the chance to visit the Rosalie Whyel Museum in neighboring Bellevue. Sadly the museum will be closing in a few months on March 1st, 2012.
If you can get to the museum before it closes, do so! The collection is wonderful. The highlights for me are the two Izannah Walker dolls, a lovely pre-patent doll dressed in red wool challis, with a trunkful of belongings and a tiny 13 inch patented doll with the molded shoulder-plate. The wooden dolls are also amazing, especially one 24 inch George II era English wooden from 1750-1760 with a large original wardrobe of superbly sewn garments.
The day following our museum tour we headed over to Rosie’s Too , which is a second, off site, collectible doll shop owned by the museum. I found a cute, tiny black bisque baby doll and an antique chemise just the right size for one of my Izannahs.
If you can’t visit in person, the museum sells a book entitled The Heart of the Tree, which chronicles their 2002 exhibit of the same name. It’s a lovely book and I didn’t mind paying the $49.95 cover price, but I do wish that it included the fantastic 24 inch 1750-1760 doll that I mentioned above. I had to make do with buying several postcards of her and her wardrobe. They also sell a small paperback souvenir book about the museum called Rosalie Whyel Museum of Doll Art Opening Our Doors to You for $11 or $12, which has a nice photo of their pre-patent Izannah. I did not buy their larger book “THE ROSE UNFOLDS” RARITIES OF THE ROSALIE WHYEL MUSEUM OF DOLL ARTVolume One. It wasn’t so much the $79.95 price tag as it was the size and weight of the book. I just couldn’t face dragging it around Washington, then on to California and finally back to Connecticut 🙂 I may have to break down and purchase it a some point, because it does have large lovely photographs of both of their Izannah Walker dolls.
You can also find photos of both the Rosalie Whyle Izannahs in the article “Izannah Walker – Godmother to Cloth Doll Makers” by Susan Hedrick, Soft Dolls & Animals, Summer 1998 and a photo of just their pre-patent Izannah in “Early American Stockinette Dolls: Part 1- Izannah Walker and Martha Chase Dolls” by Judy Beswick, The Cloth Doll, Fall 1998.
If you would like to read more about the museum there is a nice article on page 14 of the July 2011 issue of Antique Doll Collector.
Izannah Walker Journal 