Antique Izannah Walker Dolls · Doll Clothing · Izannah Walker Reproduction Doll

Chemises

I’m sure that you can all call to mind an image of a classic Izannah Walker doll, wearing a charming print dress with a neckline that gently hugs her shoulders.  Layered under her dress will be a chemise, petticoats and pantalettes.

When you are dressing your Izannah Walker doll it is important for her undergarments to have the proper fit.  If your doll will be wearing a low cut dress then her chemise must be cut to match.

It has been speculated that Izannah Walker was making dolls as early as the mid 1840’s.  Low shoulder baring gowns were fashionable for young children beginning in the late 18th century through the mid 1860’s.  After the Civil War necklines on children’s dresses and chemises rose.  The doll shown on the left, in the photo above, wears her original chemise that shows all of her shoulders, right up to the top of her arms.  The hem line of this chemise falls below her knees.  The doll on the right also wears her original chemise, but it’s neckline and hemline are both higher, with the bottom of the garment ending just below her hips (click here for another view).  Both chemises are made of cotton sheeting.

The fit of the doll’s chemises are very true to life and match the fit of corresponding real chemises of the period.

c. 1860 calf length, machine stitched, cotton sheeting chemise with Turkey red embroidered eyelet and a single inital.

A chemise is the garment that was worn closest to the body.  Stays/corsets were worn over the top of the chemise, followed by petticoats.   Pantalettes, once they were introduced in the early 19th century, were worn under the chemise to cover the legs.  If a chemise fits properly, even though the neckline is off the shoulder, it will easily stay in place without falling off.

Machine stitched cotton sheeting chemise with fantastic hand embroidered yoke and sleeve trim.
Close up view of embroidered detail.
Machine stitched linen chemise with tatted lace trim and red embroidered initals and number. Chemises, men's shirts and sheets were often embroidered with initals and numbered, to make sure that they were rotated evenly.
Sleeve and gusset detail.
Machine stitched cotton sheeting chemise with hand embroidered yoke and crochet lace.

If you would like a closer look at any of the small photos, you can enlarge them by clicking on the image.

Directions for making the Izannah era heart shaped pin cushion and emery that the dolls are holding are on my 18th Century Home Journal.

Happy Valentine’s Day!

Doll Clothing · Drawings and Give Aways! · Izannah Reproduction Doll Class · Izannah Walker Reproduction Doll · Where to Shop

A Year Full of Celebration, Contests, Surprises and Special Events!

This year is the 25th anniversary of my business, A Sweet Remembrance, which I began in June, 1986.  To mark the occasion I am planning a year filled with fun, whimsical, interesting, informative and sometimes down right silly events, drawings, contests and classes!

This is the antique fabric and lace that I am giving away in the drawing. Can't you just picture it made up into the perfect summer dress for an Izannah Walker doll? All she would need to celebrate the 4th of July would be a tiny vintage flag!

The first drawing for all of my Reproduction Izannah Walker Doll Making students will be for a dress length of antique fabric and enough antique lace to trim a full set of underclothes for your doll.  All of the details are posted on the class member site.

If you would like to take the class and have a chance at winning the fabric and lace, there is still plenty of time.  The drawing will close on Memorial Day.

Doll Clothing · Restoration and Conservation

A Fortunate Find

During the holidays I had a chance to go rummage around some vintage clothing stores with my youngest son and his girlfriend.  We unearthed several treasures, including this antique doll dress made of a ombre printed pink cotton.  The dress is not quite right for any of my Izannahs, but it will be perfect on one of my antique German bisque dolls.

The first thing I did once I got the dress home was to wash it using Orvis and sodium perborate.  If you would like to read more about how to do this, check out my previous post on the subject.

This is what the dress looked like when I bought it.
A good washing made a huge difference to it's appearance and will help prolong the life of the fabric.
A close-up look at the dress fabric.
Doll Clothing · Izannah Walker Reproduction Doll · Where to Shop

My Latest Doll

 

Here are photos of the doll that I just finished.  She is already spoken for, but if you are smitten with her, you may order a doll just like her.  The fabrics that I used for her clothing are all antique, so they are one of a kind, with the exception of the striped linen in her petticoat, which I do have more of.  I also have some similar double pink fabric, both antique and new, which would both  make up wonderfully into dresses like this one.

If you would like to order a doll, please email me at paula@asweetremembrance.com or call 860-355-5709.

Doll Clothing

The Frugal Dressmaker

This week I followed in the steps of many dressmakers before me.  I used the scraps leftover from a two piece reproduction c.1860’s woman’s dress to fashion a child’s gown from the same period for one of my dolls.  Frugal seamstresses have been making dolls and their clothing from bits and pieces of fabric culled from other sewing projects for centuries.  I thought you might enjoy seeing  photos of both the dresses together.

The doll and the dress are shown on an early Rhode Island press bed. The coverlet on the bed is a 19th century purple and white handwoven linsey woolsey with a center seam. To the right of the bed is one end of an antique Amish quilting frame.

The fabric is a plaid silk taffeta.  Both gowns are lined in brown polished cotton and trimmed with black velvet.  I cut the skirt of the doll’s dress on the bias and cartridge pleated it to the waistband.

The doll pictured here is sold.  She’s on lay-away.  The doll size plaid taffeta dress is available.

Doll Clothing · Izannah Walker Reproduction Doll · Where to Shop

What to Wear???

Hmmm… decisions, decisions.  What to wear today???  Pink, brown or cheddar orange?

This doll is currently available with any one or all of the three dresses shown here.

For more details please see her full description on my website, or feel free to call 860-355-5709 or email me paula@asweetremembrance.com.  I would also be happy to answer any questions you might have about placing a custom order, or be happy to chat if you’d just like to say “hi”.

 

Doll Clothing · Reference Materials

Inspiration!

Looking for some fashionable  ideas for your Izannah’s fall wardrobe?  Antique paper dolls are a great window into the past when you are researching historically accurate clothing.

Doll Clothing · Izannah Reproduction Doll Class

Period Appropriate Dress Trim

In the mid-nineteenth century dressmakers applied many intricate trims to the garments they fashioned.  One of my favorites is a very economical and ingenious trim, made by cutting apart striped fabric, turning under the edges and sewing it onto contrasting dress material.

I made this dress using the Izannah Walker Doll Clothes pattern that I sell, which is also included in my Izannah Walker Reproduction Doll Making Class.  Instead of using brown polished cotton to face the hem, I used a red floral print.  The trim was cut from alternating rows of striped fabric and applied around the skirt, cuffs and shaped waistband.  I also used it for the band around the neckline.

Other alterations to the pattern include a shorter skirt length and additional fullness in the skirt, which I was able to add by making cartridge pleats rather than gathers.

I always enjoy making this type of trim, mainly because I think it’s such a neat idea.  It doesn’t cost much money to do, which would have been an important consideration at the time.  All you need is striped fabric, new or recycled,  scissors, an iron and some time.  I find that spray starch is also helpful, but it’s not a necessity.

Here are two more examples of the same type of trim.  Both are reproduction children’s dresses that I have made.  The photos show both the original dresses and the reproductions.

c. 1830’s to Mid-1840’s Dress for a Very Young Boy

please visit my website for details and price.

Late 1840’s to Late 1850’s Young Child’s Dress

please visit asweetremembrance.com for details and price.

Want to know more about mid-1800’s dress trims?  Click here to read my post on waved braid.

Doll Clothing · Where to Shop

Would you like to purchase a Custom Made Reproduction Izannah Walker Doll?

Have you been dreaming of owning an Izannah Walker doll for years?  If so, you probably have an idea of what your favorite hair style, clothing, feet and other features are.  You may even have decided on just the right spot in your home to display an Izannah, should you ever own one.

If you have a dream doll that you would like to have me bring to life, you may commission a custom Izannah Walker Reproduction Doll.

With a custom doll, you may specify:

– which mold you would like used to create the doll’s pressed cloth head – either one of two molds made directly from my antique Izannah Walker dolls or molds that I have made from  heads I sculpted

– if you would like your doll to look well loved and worn, newly made, or somewhere in between

– skin tone

– girl or boy

– hair style

– bare feet or painted boots

– clothing style and particulars; reproduction or antique fabric, one petticoat or two – in either cotton or wool, lace or eyelet trim, whether you would like an apron or not

– if you would like multiple dresses or additional garments such as outerwear

The doll that I am currently making is a custom order.  She is going to be very special.  Her new owner went through her reference file of Izannahs that she loves and asked me to incorporate all of her favorite features into one doll.  She has chosen fabric in her favorite colors and has asked me to do very elaborate trim work on the dress and underclothing.

I would be happy to do the same for you.  You may email me at paula@asweetremembrance.com or call me at 860-355-5709 to discuss your ideas for a doll.

Doll Clothing

Pretty in Pink

Here is a quick peek at a dress that I’ve been working on this week.   I made this dress using the clothing pattern that I drafted from the original brown print dress that belongs to one of my antique Izannahs.  The fabric is an antique 30 inch wide homespun check, which looks a lot different from modern gingham in person, but not in the photo.  I did have to make shorter cuffs than on the original brown dress, due to a lack of fabric.  Pretty amazing what a difference that a change of color makes! 🙂

This dress actually belongs to one of my new reproduction Izannahs, but while the paint on the new doll is drying, her much older sister stepped in to try on the dress.